need help, 01 chv cav

G

grauracing

New Member
the car is cutting out real bad and the check Eng. lite is lite, also the TRAC lite frequently comes on that's when you have to pull the car over turn it off, then restart it, chk eng lite stays on but TRAC isnt, Its a 2.2 liter. things i have tried with no luck are, new coils, new module, new plugs new wires, new cap, new battery, new air and fuel filter, all failed, so I tried a diagnostic on it and it showed a code for a faulty computer and a code for misfire on cyl two and four, so i changed the computer and had it flashed and its still cutting out. anyone got any suggestions PLEASE, email is mentar05@wmconnect.com or 314-708-1609
thanks T
 
these are famous for injector failure. sounds like you are just thowing parts at it, in the hopes of finding the bad part. these things don't have a distributer, so you couldn't have replaced the cap. i suspect either cyl #2 or 4 injector is bad, judging from your post. you need to check them all. how many miles on it? if alot, then consider replacing them all. the labor to replace 1 is the same as replacing all 4. just have to buy 4, rather than 1. call me and i will explain how to check them.618 398 0005.art.
 
Thats true. Also..watch what type of wires you put on those. If they are elcheapos..they can cause a frequency that will throw the rpm sensor off. Since it is throwing a code..it is something electrical definetely. 1 thing you can try is to get and adjustable spark checker..auto zone has them for like 5 bucks. You can turn it to 60-70 thousands clearance on each plug wire..run the engine..on a load(brake torque) and physically see if it misfires. 1more note..those cars in general had problems with the lock up torque converters. These would fool any mechanic thinking it was a miss..or shut down. Happens mainly when you slow suddenly to a stop..lock up doesnt free up and engine sputerrs or dies. And it does cause a code..if several to appear. There are tests to check fuel injectors with an ohm meter..but..ive seen those test tell you they are bad...when they are good..and visa versa.
 
te car has 60,000 miles on it and has been well serviced, art, i'll call you about checking those injectors, about them wires, i thought about this, they are cheap wires so i will change them out first, one thing i dont understand is the TRAC warning light coming on, does that sound normal? I also was going to check the computer termal wires for a short, bout thats a mess and I dont know where to get the wiring diagram for this cluster, got anymore suggestions or know where i can get a print out of the wiring on-line??? thanks for your responses I hope with the help i get from you all does the trick.
 
dont waste your time jumping into a wiring problem that you most likely don't have. my bet is an injector. go for simple stuff first. make sure you put the wires on the correct coil terminals/plugs. also make sure you didn't 'whisker' a plug. by that i mean slightly crack one of the plug porcelain. VERY e-z to do without knowing it. pull each plug out and VERY CAREFULLY inspect the porcelain. reinstall if you think it's ok. if you think you see a hairline crack, then it is. replace it. you can go to the library to get the schematic for the pcm/cluster, but i can tell already that's way above you,(no offense) so its best to not go that deep. a local auto repair shop that has any type of alldata or mitchell on cd can also help. be sure to come prepared with a 12 pack for their time. i'm still betting on an injector shorted internally.
 
Yes..ecm problems are almost non existent..ive only seen 2 go bad (gm style) in my 20 yrs of messing with cars. And both were caused by electrical spikes. Best go with the injector route..and go from there. Let us know if you need further assistance. Mike
 
my guess is that a shorted injector caused an pcm driver (the little elec. switch internal to the pcm that fires each injector) failure code. these things are made to do that so as not to damage the pcm. kinda like mini circuit breakers.they are protection devices built in when an injector fails electrically. my guess is your pcm was just fine, and didn't need replaced at all. probably just had a failure code associated with the injector drivers. sometimes called quad drivers, but same thing.
 
So what would be the economical solution to finding and fixing the a faulty injector, I have done this before but the injectors were a lot cheaper, I think the injectors are around 100 ea. and were trading it in on a real car so I would like to just replace what I need to at this point. Thanks for all your help everyone.
 
hmmm I work on one dand in. switch was bad... but when you turned the key on none of the lights would light up (idoit lights) but it would crank over but not getting "fire" to the comp :eek: "prolly" not your problem though
 
those fuel injectors have problems with getting clogged. first ,if u have an ohm meter, check thier resistance to make sure they are good electrically. u might be able to clean them, alot cheaper than replacement. but u need to be able to hook into the fuel rail to clean them good. u can also lift up the fuel rail and have someone bump the key to watch for fuel spray just make sure u donot crank more than about 2 sec and diconnect the ignition wires to keep it from starting. proper safety is required!!!
 
looks like i have some work to do this weekend, thank you all for all the suggestions, as im hearing over and over again about faulty injectors on this model. so thats probably it, I,ll let you all know how it goes, again thanks...thats why i love this site... I'll let ya know..
 
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