Need help guys race car question

W

whitesracing

New Member
Ok i am running a 355 with bowtie heads std hei dist that has been locked and degreed. Solid lift cam.

When i am at home or at the track and car is idling, its fine, go out on track and give it gas, the car will pop like a popcorn machine. go back to idle it does great.

Can rev in pits again no problem. But if its under a load it pops until you let off gas. go back to idle and its fine.

I switched dist and now when i turn on the power the coil wll buzz. flip the switch couple times it stops. When it stops I turn on ign no buzz, turn on gauge lights and coil starts to buzz. turn off gauges it quits.

Turn on ign switch start car, shut it off and turn ign switch on motor rolls and then coil starts to buzz.

Took out dist, and if its not touching anything metal its fine.

I need help guys. Driving me crazy.
 
motor

well that could be a many of things did you check your timing i no a 355 should be timed at around 34,35,
 
SPARK PLUGS start with them u may have wrong ones in for ur set of heads we fought same problem bout half a yr last year
 
I'm with mags on this one,check for bad ground, hook one end of voltmeter to bat neg side and other end to block if voltage is more than.5 v, make sure eng is grounded....I ground eng to frame w/a short piece of bat cable, and ground bat straight to frame. ALL connections must be clean and tight. Dont assume that the eng is grounded through mounts. Check voltage at coil while idling, I have had low voltage issues cause similar problems (esp with coil buzzing). good luck, Greg
 
If its not the Ground or a bad wire somewhere, I'd check fuel pressure it could be too high or too low causing the problem, Flooding or leaning it out. But i'd bet on the ground wires myself.
Could be the Module too, or even a loose rotor.
 
Ok guys,

The motor is grounded to frame and battery has a good frame conection.

I changed coil with another one, once you turn ign on the coil will buzz, I removed the dist out of motor, and if its not tiuching anything metal, the coil will not buzz, if you touch metal, you can see sparks and coil will start to buzz, even with another coil it will do it.

I am running the accel short header plugs. The car ran great the first night no issues, it did pop once in feature but cleared up and ran great rest of night.
 
ign

do you have a msd box, if so does you wires stand up to the volts or is the box hooked up right i no if you hook them up wrong it can brake have you checked your spark plugs on how they are burning it way be your carb.
 
Its not a msd box, its a standard HEI dist, thats been locked and degreed.

A simple power wire.

as for the plugs, they are alittle black on a couple but you can still see the white down inside.

I am running alittle rich, but over rich
 
may help

we fought a problem similar to this our first year out, we changed the coil in the dist, run a single power wire by itself from a hot source to a switch to the dist so that nothing else would feed off of it, and went to a cooler plug, like an AC43 or even a AC42, and even a little leaner jet so theres no fuel left anywhere to burn, hopefully this may bring you a little help
 
I know its simple, but make sure you have the little ground strap on the coil. You know the little metal tab lookin thing that goes on the coil hold-down screw.
Another option may be a shorted pickup inside dist housing. I would borrow a complete dist out of someones running engine, coil, cap and wires all and drop in.
Derek
 
We had a couple of issues that are similiar to the one you are talking about. One was the carb had a sprayer semi-plugged. Would run fine in the gagrage and pits, but under a load it would fall on its face and pop. Another is a bad intake, similiar to the carb. And also look at the heat range of the plugs. If they are wrong for your gas set-up, they will make it pop as well. Just few thing we had ran into.
 
Id check for a shorted coil or can also be an ignition module shorted as well. Need to check to make sure the coil itself is getting a good ground at the distributor plug in. Dont rely on the motr or distributor to self ground itself. Can check it with a test light be good enough. If you can like was said..just swap the whole distributor and see what she does. Let us know. Thanks.
 
I had the same deal for a number of nights a few years ago. Changed everything, carbs, distributors, coils, boxes, etc. Kept thinking I fixed it cause it would run fine without a load, get on the track and boom boom boom. Ended up being a blown head gasket. Do a compression test.
 
Relying on the frame to provide a good ground to the engine, even with a ground strap from the engine to the frame, is a mistake. Run a 12 Ga wire from your battery ground to an unpainted spot on your engine block. This is in addition to your ground being ran to the frame.

If you think you have a blown head gasket. A leak down check is better then a compression check. This will let you know where the leak is if there is any.

Racin90 and stpower are right in thinking that you need to check that the coil is getting a good ground through the distributor.

The voltage might be present,...but if the ground isn't there to complete the circuit you're still going to have problems.

What lash are you running? What kind of cam are you running? Was it degreed in properly? If so, how was it degreed in?

What timing are you running?

When you're saying the dist has been locked and degreed. Are you saying you phased the rotor? How did you do that? It might be out of phase. How did you lock out the Dist?

Are you sure all your plug wires are good? Have you ran it in the dark to see if your jumping spark to ground somewhere?

Might consider leaning it a few jet numbers.

If you think you might need some other help from me let me know. If you get it figured out I'd like to know what it was.

Thanks, Don

WCRE

acerodshop.com
 
ok guys this is what I have found so far.

Had a bad module in the dist. Changed it and the buzz went away.

With a meter hooked up the voltage started out at 12.5 then would jump to over 16.5.


The number 2 plug was fouled causing the pop out of the exhaust.

I did change the jetting in the carb, to see if that helps with the fuel issue.
 
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