Running on a sticky track with 125lbs. bite rr bar bottom hole lr bar middle hole left swing arm in new top hole. Springs are lf 450 rf 400 lr 300 rr 250 purple panhard bar top of frame to center of heim 4.5" warthog down so the panhard bar is 1" higher on frame side. 355 iron block with spec heads. 55% left and 54.5% rear about 50% cross. with driver 20 gallons fuel and no mud clean car percentages. Car feels tight after the initial loose feeling of rollsteer then turns in a tight radius, no countersteering. Would trailing the right side help? Also 6" stagger d-55 tires. Would more front stagger help? 2" instead of 1/2 an inch? After resetting the bite of course.
Tight Rayburn/Not throttle push
- Thread starter morebite
- Start date
No, you have yours almost identical to the way I had my brothers. Your fronts are too soft and are unloading your cross going in, which you don't have enough of. 500's across the front, 225 right rear, 350 left rear, 53-55 cross. Drive er in fairly straight and as soon as it rolls over you should be able to mash it. Awesome forward bite. Gear er up good. Keep your tires freshly ground.
CC-28 and dawg9 thanks for tips. I have tried both set ups you guys mentioned and I'm going to try the the new sheet after some more seat time. Those set ups had some good laps, I may have been inconsistant. Every race gets better. 7 of 10 nights of racing have been raced with no dnfs. I would like to fine tune this current set up with trailing the right, how much? Or would moving the purple panhard bar down loosen the car in the throttle part of the turn? Does lowering a Rayburn panhard bar alter forward bite? This set up in the car now is very fast on the straights and I can't seem to turn it freely. It is a '02 chassis with the '99 ladder bar,pull bar mounted inside the pullbar plates in the '99 position left hole on chassis. I have a y2k plate for the pullbar, would that lift the chassis more and add some roll steer? Or would it add a throttle push? I'm starting to like this car.
Cj told me moving the panhard bar(long purple) up gets more side bite but loses forward bite.I run mine at 4.5 to center.The y2k plate is pretty good option in the slick.The new cars are over just a little more to the left,maybe 1.5 inches on the pull bar from the y2k plate.I also like to soften the LR spring when it slicks.I will run my RR bar all the way down if i need help getting the car to turn through the corner.Also, are you running a smaller right front caliper.I know all the new ones run a 1 inch on the RF.
I have a 1 3/8 rf caliper on a wilwood brake valve at maximum decrease in pressure. Do you think dropping the purple bar down an inch or two would loosen the car or would it compound the tight problem? What does up or down panhard bar rake to the frame do with the purple bar? Thanks for the help.
Dean
Racer
When you raise that purple panhard bar on the frame it adds side bite. Your springs are to soft, listen to the guy who called Rayburn. Take that valve off the brakes, we run a 1", cant tell alot of difference from it to a 1 3/8". Rayburn used to preach against 3 wheel brakes, now he wants a 2" on LF and nothing on RF.
Would anyone care to comment on my current setup explained above? I had the rr bar in the bottom hole and that may help the car turn though once the car is on the gas and that rr bar pulls the chassis up I lose loose roll steer, right? This makes me want to trail the right side and maybe keep the rr bar in the middle. Also the pull bar is in the old style left side mount inside the pull bar plates. Would moving it over to the right hole help? I need some input on the purple panhard bar,is dropping it going to help?
