toe in/ toe out turn left for street stock

street stock turning left, is this theory right

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cottagehills

cottagehills

http://webbtown.com/
  1. ok toe in and toe out and turning left, if i understand this right i want the front left tire to to have slightly more toe out than the right side front tire
  2. so doing this by the eyeball sightline may not be the best way but this is the way we are going to do this adjustment.
  3. the front tires should appear to turn outward and not inward as if to say maybe it looks likethe tires might plow up the dirt.
  4. this has nothing to do with wether the tires lean in or out at the top for camber.
  5. adjusting is done with the steering linkgage, the right front should only have a slight toe out
  6. adjusting the left should have a visible difference from the right. when the left side has more toe out this will pull the car to the left more, so in a straightaway the car will want to go left.
  7. now where to adjust on the steering linkgage , take off the tire rod end. loosen bolts and turn, reattach and tighten bolts.
  8. turning the tire rod end out will give you toe out and turning it inward will give you toe in.
  9. small adjustments need to be done, and we will try this at the next race. we are not going to measure anything but we are going by the drivers ability.
  10. i would like input from any body
 
ok but on a chevy street stock how am i to know what to measure and what should measurements be and what will the measurements tell me, more toe out more toe in ?
 
cottagehills said:
ok but on a chevy street stock how am i to know what to measure and what should measurements be and what will the measurements tell me, more toe out more toe in ?
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It doesn’t matter what the actual measurement is… Just that the measurement in FRONT of the tires is around ¼ inch MORE (not to exceed ½ inch) than the measurement from the back of the tires. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE MEASURMENTS AT THE SAME PLACE on the tread front and back… AND at approximately the same height from the floor.

Using a tow-plate can take some of the guess work out of where to measure as well.
 
ok so the front of the tires need to have 1/4 each side more than the back of the front tires, now i am understanding,
would it be wrong if the left front had a little more, the reason i ask that if it had more wouldn't the car automatically veer left thus making the car do more work than the driver?
hey, could this be done off the front rotors instead of the tires?
 
cottagehills said:
ok so the front of the tires need to have 1/4 each side more than the back of the front tires, now i am understanding,
would it be wrong if the left front had a little more, the reason i ask that if it had more wouldn't the car automatically veer left thus making the car do more work than the driver?
hey, could this be done off the front rotors instead of the tires?
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The "heavy" wheel is the one where the tow will have the most effect. Most of the trip around the track the right front will be the most important for tow out.

No don't do it off the rotors... The car must be on the ground and the weight needs to be distributed as it would be in race trim.
 
Oh… By the way…. The amount of CASTER SPLIT is the adjustment for making the car pull to the left.
 
great, so stick with equal measurements on toe out, no rotors, to much toe will make a plow and that is not what i want, but i also need to make sure that that there is a difference from front and rear of the tire. this is great input.
 
How to set toe out on a racecar; Get you a block of wood or something solid you can stand on and keep from moving while you do the rest of this... Drive a nail into the block of wood at a toe nail angle and bend it over so you can get the nail to mark a line around the circumfrence of the tire, and to keep it from moving side to side. Rotate the tire keeping it straight while you turn it. This wil mark a line all the way around the tire. Get the block of wood out of the way. Now measure the front mark at the front of the tires highest point you can get to with the car on the ground. Make sure you measure at the same height on the rear of the tire. {Example, 76 1/2" on the front marking, 76 1/4" at the rear measurement, Eureka! it's right, leave it alone} More or less adjust tie eod ends equally. Now, having said how to do it, there are certain areas that can get you into trouble... 1. Make sure the rack, (oops the drag link) is centered in the car. Turn the wheels to the left all the way, make a mark with the steering wheel, now count the turns it takes to go to full lock the opposite direction. Divide that in half for the center of the wheel. Adjust drag link accordingly, *unless something is bent, spindles, drag link, idler arms, etc. 2.Now set toe out. Just a note on setting toe out, make sure after any and all adjustments, roll the car a bit (and bounce it too) to get rid of sidewall deflection (and to settle car, if you're jacking it up to make adjustments), this can cause big headaches on a Late model and modified, I don't know how bad it is on a S/S, but I'd do it anyway. I think that about covers it, anyone see anything I missed?
 
I forgot one thing, if the car prevents you from measuring at or near the center of the wheel, I have a cheap way you can make a toe-out checker, without the tape measure, if anybody's interested, I'll tell you how to do it.

I'm all about thinking cheaper in the name of figuring stuff out...
 
i know that the car i am working on is toe out, but how much is enough , i am going to put all this info together ... so that i get a better picture.... i would like to know more about the toe checker...
thanks
 
On a modified and a late model, between a 1/4" and 3/8" is where everybody is running. A quarter is more for a longer track say a half mile and more, and 3/8" is more for a slower, tighter track. PM me for more info on the checker.
 
we only changed the front left to 900lbs and the right front we left at 1300lbs did not make anychanges to the toe in/out...........but still the changes we made pulled the left rear axle right out.... something changed
 
The spring split is just as important as the actual spring rate at any one corner. By softening only the left front, you increased you split from 200 lbs to 400 lbs. It probably felt like you moved your push problem from the center of the corner to more toward the entry of the corner.

I don’t know if I would attribute the LR axel problem so much to a set-up problem… I would think that would be more like a maintenance problem or just “chit happens.” Do you tack-weld your bearing retainer ring to the axel? Sine you’re knew to this game, no one may have told ya that trick yet. ;)
 
the left front sping will be changed to 1100lbs this week, but the push went front mid turn to the end of the turn.......but no racing this weekend need to change rearend.....that is another subject....
 
cottagehills said:
the left front sping will be changed to 1100lbs this week,
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Now why would ya go and do that fur? :confused: You're going to change it to 1100lbs LF and 1100lbs RF? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
oh no, taken the right front from 1300lbs down to 1100lbs and leaving the left front at 900lbs... but the rearend is broke so we are going replace it all toghether
 
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