1st Car! Will you help me build it???

C

Cody1820

New Member
I'm gonna need lots of continuous help so PLEASE Bookmark this post and visit often!​
So this is my plan I want to build a B-Mod or I believe at some tracks its called an E-Mod. Basically the modified class that runs more stock parts!
My plan is to start from the very beginning and build it from scratch not only do I think I could spend almost the same amount as buying a roller built but I will learn every part of my car.
I assume that I should begin with a car frame. I will be running a GM motor and I assume that will call for a GM frame.
Whats some good frames to look for that are more common to find and will have a vast majority of interchangeable parts???
I know I will have plenty of front end building questions to have answered before I start building the cage and tube frame but....
Does anyone know of a kit that is pre cut and labeled that they would recommend???

Note: If anyone has parts they feel I might need at this stage feel free to tell me what you have or know of. I would also be interested in buying a frame/tube chassis for the right price.

All your help will be greatly appreciated and im really excited to get started. During this build I will shoot videos and take lots of picture so this should be fun. Well build it one step at a time until we get it done!

If you have any questions I will get them answered as quickly as possible!

Heres some links to some track rules near me that im considering. I hope to build my car somewhat multi versatile to different tracks.

 
Though enthusiasm helps a lot, do you have any experience building a race car? From your post I'm assuming not, and in that case, don't waste your money trying to build a frame. The front end isn't as simple as just bolt on parts.

Buy a frame from a reputable builder and assemble it. That would be my advice.
 
If you really wanna go the route of building your own car I'd go with a metric front stub, off a G-body car from the late 70's early 80's. It'll save you a lot of money versus the Chevelle stub. Also, if you want a kit that is pre cut and labeled you could look into the speedway motors chassis kit and they sell an assembly manual for it that goes step by step. If you do decide to build it from scratch get a good tubing bender, not a cheap hydraulic pipe bender, those will just kink the tubing. Use DOM tubing for the cage!!! Just start going to the track and taking note of how other cars look and start copying. Good luck!
 
T.C. Springer said:
Though enthusiasm helps a lot, do you have any experience building a race car? From your post I'm assuming not, and in that case, don't waste your money trying to build a frame. The front end isn't as simple as just bolt on parts.

Buy a frame from a reputable builder and assemble it. That would be my advice.
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I may be way off but the way they have the B-Mod class set up the front end seems to be the same as a stock factory car. No extras or bolt on items allowed.
If I'm wrong just say so. Lol
Thanks for your reply!
 
Mindblower1991 said:
If you really wanna go the route of building your own car I'd go with a metric front stub, off a G-body car from the late 70's early 80's. It'll save you a lot of money versus the Chevelle stub. Also, if you want a kit that is pre cut and labeled you could look into the speedway motors chassis kit and they sell an assembly manual for it that goes step by step. If you do decide to build it from scratch get a good tubing bender, not a cheap hydraulic pipe bender, those will just kink the tubing. Use DOM tubing for the cage!!! Just start going to the track and taking note of how other cars look and start copying. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Will any car do or does it need to be some certain ones? I understand it has to be a metric G-Body which I'll have to research what that is but does it have to be GM and will any Metric G-Body work the same as the rest?
 
Cody1820 said:
I may be way off but the way they have the B-Mod class set up the front end seems to be the same as a stock factory car. No extras or bolt on items allowed.
If I'm wrong just say so. Lol
Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...

Just from a quick browse through those rules, they seem to be typical style. The front end not stock. The upper control arm mounts are not stock, more are the upper control arms. Next time you can, take a peek at a well known name brand chassis. Look real close at the front end and you'll be able to tell right away how different from stock it is.

As far as G body goes, he is talking about Monte Carlo/Cutlass. The metric stub requires a lot of experience to make it work properly. I personally feel you would he wasting your money building a car with your experience.
 
T.C. Springer said:
Just from a quick browse through those rules, they seem to be typical style. The front end not stock. The upper control arm mounts are not stock, more are the upper control arms. Next time you can, take a peek at a well known name brand chassis. Look real close at the front end and you'll be able to tell right away how different from stock it is.

As far as G body goes, he is talking about Monte Carlo/Cutlass. The metric stub requires a lot of experience to make it work properly. I personally feel you would he wasting your money building a car with your experience.
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I just thought if I built a car I could do it over the winter and not be out all that money at once. The more I research though the more I'm thinking about starting out with a stock car and then graduate up to a super stock
 
I'm not sure if there is any difference between any of the monte carlo/cutlass/regal frames from different years. T.C. Springer is right though, in the long run you're prolly better off just buying an old frame from a well known a-mod racer that you know the history of the car. In my experience these cars are difficult enough to just assemble from bare frame, I'm putting together my 2nd B-mod, it's tedious to say the least..
 
Anyone know of a good place I could get a new or used bar chassis for a descent price?
It needs to have the front suspension spindles a arms etc... Already completed. I think I know where a 9 inch floater rear end with everything still on it for 400
 
I have an 03 pierce copy frame only with stock front end parts just what your looking for,it has the tub and deck installed plus the fuel tank,plenty of work still to do to help you learn the ropes of building your first car,only asking 900.00 for it its a steal in my eyes just ready to move it give me a call or text at 217-617-0775. Also have many shocks,springs,and a nine inch rear end housing if interested. Thanks for your time. Troy Grotz.
 
I've found a few cars and I'm waiting for a chance to go get them but I think we should go ahead and get started with what I do have and that is a 383 stroker.

Are these a common and good motor used in b-mods?

I built it a few years ago it's a true 400 crank turned down I had the motor line honed had the machine shop deck the head area it's bored 30 and I used new vortec rods with kb pistons they are hyper flat top pistons. The cam is I believe it was called a 284 small circle base comp cam. At the time I was street racing and wanted a fast motor for my truck and comp cams said this would be a good one.

Any thoughts comments on what I've got and done?

I know our track makes you run a 2 barrel 500cfm Holley
No aluminum heads
I'm thing vortec heads should be common and well priced because of my cousins salvage yard :)

Vortec heads a good idea?

I still need to pick out a intake and headers?

All comments greatly appreciated thank you guys so much!
 
I've found a few cars and I'm waiting for a chance to go get them but I think we should go ahead and get started with what I do have and that is a 383 stroker. <br />
<br />
Are these a common and good motor used in b-mods?<br />
<br />
I built it a few years ago it's a true 400 crank turned down I had the motor line honed had the machine shop deck the head area it's bored 30 and I used new vortec rods with kb pistons they are hyper flat top pistons. The cam is I believe it was called a 284 small circle base comp cam. At the time I was street racing and wanted a fast motor for my truck and comp cams said this would be a good one. <br />
<br />
Any thoughts comments on what I've got and done?<br />
<br />
I know our track makes you run a 2 barrel 500cfm Holley <br />
No aluminum heads<br />
I'm thing vortec heads should be common and well priced because of my cousins salvage yard :)<br />
<br />
Vortec heads a good idea?<br />
<br />
I still need to pick out a intake and headers?<br />
<br />
All comments greatly appreciated thank you guys so much!
 
400 is a good engine if its a 4 bolt main and really...dart blocks are the thing youd really want. If its a 2 bolt main block..........i wouldnt run it hard. Ive had guys tell me they turn theirs 8000 but ive seen some of those motors come back in boxes too. Cant turn them over 6000 with a 2 bolt main and thats pushing it. Plus you need to have coolant passages taken care of ect. Id have it done or it will run hot and will crack.....which they were prone too as well. Vortec heads are a good head....but you need to upgrade keepers retainers and springs as well as probably have to have seats reset for bigger lift cam. Thats a good cam...is it solid lift?
 
racin90 said:
400 is a good engine if its a 4 bolt main and really...dart blocks are the thing youd really want. If its a 2 bolt main block..........i wouldnt run it hard. Ive had guys tell me they turn theirs 8000 but ive seen some of those motors come back in boxes too. Cant turn them over 6000 with a 2 bolt main and thats pushing it. Plus you need to have coolant passages taken care of ect. Id have it done or it will run hot and will crack.....which they were prone too as well. Vortec heads are a good head....but you need to upgrade keepers retainers and springs as well as probably have to have seats reset for bigger lift cam. Thats a good cam...is it solid lift?
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Well it's a 4 bolt main 350 block with a 400 crank and 350 rods. I plan on running a bmod and I was thinking the wouldn't let you run anything but a stock block and heads?
And yes it's a solid lift?
 
Cool. yea stock block and stock heads but you can run race springs which will need installed in the heads or youll float the valves at high rpms. You dont have to have the water passeges redone but i recommend it. Its hard to run those without getting them hot and since they like to crack..........best to do as much as possible to keep it from cracking. Cam sounds like a good cam as well. Good luck
 
I have a new Kirkey seat 18 inch ? and a solid street or pure stock if ya need a cheep starter car ? I also have several wheels and emods but still keep in mind people sell thing that dont always work for them hence will probably not work for you just a note. buy best safety equip them best roller you can afford then motor cause if you get hurt the best of everything else means nothing and the best motor can only get ya in trouble with a not so good chassis
 
racin90 said:
Cool. yea stock block and stock heads but you can run race springs which will need installed in the heads or youll float the valves at high rpms. You dont have to have the water passeges redone but i recommend it. Its hard to run those without getting them hot and since they like to crack..........best to do as much as possible to keep it from cracking. Cam sounds like a good cam as well. Good luck
Click to expand...

You have a recommendation on which valve springs would be a descent set?
Can I do the water passages myself or is some of them pretty touchy?
 
I would call whoever make of cam you got and tell them what your going to put the springs in and what rpms you want to run. Best for them to tell you what you need and they all do a good job. Water passages.........id let a machine shop do those. They fill some in to help them run cooler and its pretty tricky. I kno a guy in wood river does it pretty reasonable......if you need a price. I can give you his number so you can call him yourself. Tell him i sent you.
 
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