A and H tire rule at I-55 and Tri-City?? LETS DO IT !!!!!!!!!!

D

Don Juan

Member
Havent heard much about it lately. Seems like the majority liked the idea. Lets get it done!
 
how about an 8000 rpm chip rule like USRA modifieds have? nah, not many people around here want rules to save people money
 
if i was a mod driver i would be more worried about the damn payout that you guys get at tracks instead of tire rules. is it worth running for 500 - 600 bucks to win???
 
Sounds like a good idea to me. We only get to come up about twice a year to run but it ****s having to buy all new D's and only get to use them 1 or 2 nights. Bud man, Down here in north carolina they pay out 350 to win, 500 if theres over 20 cars. lol
 
Bud_Man_8 said:
if i was a mod driver i would be more worried about the damn payout that you guys get at tracks instead of tire rules. is it worth running for 500 - 600 bucks to win???
Click to expand...

the better question is, is it worth it to spend a late model budget to run for 500-600 bucks that some are doing?
 
Listen before you railroad me saying "You profit from this".

The D emod tire is NOT the problem, it's the amount of rubber content on the tire from Hoosier. The tire comes with slightly over .250 rubber brand new. That's just way to much for a tire that durometers under 50. Now if they were smart they would put that amount of rubber on the A's and H's. More rubber mass equals more heat, which in turn equates to the chunking effect you typically get from a full rubber D. Now, if you take that tire and cut it down to .165-.190 ruber, and them needle the tire you will almost never see the chunking. Which in turn makes the tire last far longer, and thus saves you money.

At the end of the day if you eliminate the D compound tire it will only make the chemical aspect even more important, and frankly it will probably make chemically altered tires more common(even more than they already are). This will also seperate the faster guys from rest of the field even more as well.
 
The reason you have heard nothing is because hoosier told all the promoters their sponsorship contract would have to be renegotiated if d's were eliminated.
 
yeah, i agree with bopper. what the promoters dont think about is if a guy only has to buy 10 tires a year instead of 20 or 30, he would be better off than having to buy 20 something tires a year and get a few hundred bucks hoosier tire point money.
 
Jimmy,

If you read what I posted then there would be no need to buy that quanity of tires in a year. I'm not including chemically altering the tire in that, only cutting the tire. Just try to comprehend what I'm saying rather than assuming I am pushing a service that's against the rules. Which at the end of the day the only thing that I'm doing that's breaks rule is the chemical aspect. And really, they won't catch that anyhow. Good luck this year.
 
well i dont know a bunch about tires, but i raced 55 nights last year and probably bought 5 or 6 d's, 15 or so a's and 10 h's i bet. i really dont think emods are very good tires, i wish promoters would just do something to SAVE people money instead of making things more expensive.
 
bleed_blue16 said:
Listen before you railroad me saying "You profit from this".

The D emod tire is NOT the problem, it's the amount of rubber content on the tire from Hoosier. The tire comes with slightly over .250 rubber brand new. That's just way to much for a tire that durometers under 50. Now if they were smart they would put that amount of rubber on the A's and H's. More rubber mass equals more heat, which in turn equates to the chunking effect you typically get from a full rubber D. Now, if you take that tire and cut it down to .165-.190 ruber, and them needle the tire you will almost never see the chunking. Which in turn makes the tire last far longer, and thus saves you money.

At the end of the day if you eliminate the D compound tire it will only make the chemical aspect even more important, and frankly it will probably make chemically altered tires more common(even more than they already are). This will also seperate the faster guys from rest of the field even more as well.
Click to expand...

While i do understand what your saying i still disagree. Cutting a D may work for features or dry tracks, however I dont believe a non cut D on heavy wet tracks like in heats are still better. So your still buying the same amount of tires but now you add the cost to cut them . A and H rule keep it simple and easy why keep making things more complicated some guys dont have the resource to cut or have tires cut but can buy the harder tire at the track . JMO Roger Stryker
 
bleed_blue16 said:
Jimmy,

If you read what I posted then there would be no need to buy that quanity of tires in a year. I'm not including chemically altering the tire in that, only cutting the tire. Just try to comprehend what I'm saying rather than assuming I am pushing a service that's against the rules. Which at the end of the day the only thing that I'm doing that's breaks rule is the chemical aspect. And really, they won't catch that anyhow. Good luck this year.
Click to expand...

So does this cutting prevent the "whales tails"? Because once the edge is gone and wont come back with grindding the tire is junk in my book!
 
There were several different Q&A's I need and want to answer about cutting a tire, especially a D.

First, you will not still need to buy the same amount of tires if you have your tires cut. I can and have made a cut down D perform just as good as a full rubber D on a tractioned up track. The amount of rubber that the D comes with is just not necessary, and is the cause of a lot of the problems.

Second, to the guy who asked how do you cut a tire down. I have tire lathes that were designed to do just that. I can take a tire and cut it however I feel it needs to be. Tread depth is only part o the equation, tire profile is also just as important. If you change the static shape of the tire to where it needs to be then that would allow the full contact patch to be on the ground under dynamic load(cornering and straight aways). Which in turn means maximum sidebite and forward bite. This is Kart technology that I've transferred over to big cars.

Third, does it stop the tire from cupping or "whale tailing" as you said. Not always but it does stop the tire from tearing the edges off and chunking. You make still see a slight cupping effect over time, but I can cut that out and then in turn you can get another couple nights out of that tire. I recut tires all the time for customers, and they are sometimes amazed at the fact that what they thought was shot really wasn't.

In the end tire cutting may cost to have the procedure done, but you will buy far less tires a year. For a budget racer there is no better option. If you have more questions just ask and I will answer them.
 
So you shouldn't run the same cut tire one the right side vs the left??? If that's what your saying then you would need to have a number of spares for each corner???
 
The cost to have a tire cut is $20. This includes all lathe work and having the tire needled.

To the other guy who said something about having different cuts and spares: Yes sometimes that maybe the case, sometimes not. The way I cut a LR and the way I cut a RF is completely different. That has to be done in order to acheive full contact patch under dynamic load, that is an bi-product of what I do that happens to cost money. I will say though that is one of the very few.
 
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