brakes...... ****

Maverick!

Maverick!

John 3:7
new lines, new wheel cylinders, new master ect. no proportioning valve. brakes are hard as a rock and rear brakes will not lock up. I have to stand on them to get em to work. GM rearend. :confused: :mad:
 
First...pull the line off the master..going to the rear..make sure you got good fluid flying out of it when the pedal is depressed. Using a stock gm master?? If so..possible you got the lines to the master crossed. Only works good one way. Big resevoir and little resevoir style. If using and aftermarket set up..look and make sure the balance rod is adj so both masters get an even stroke. Might be adj for great front brakes..little rear.
 
I had this problem even with the pro valve Al. Thats why I took it off. We have never run a pro valve on our cars.
 
Ok..i think i know the problem. The master you have..is probably set up..for power brakes??? If so..need to put one on...that is for manual brakes..like a 64-69 chev impala or chevelle style. I beleive they are the same bolt width and everything.
 
ok...been talkign to some others who deal with brake problems..bad ones. First...check to make sure the shoes are on correctly..little shoe front side...longer shoe at the rear of the car. Make sure your brakes are adj real good..if the ebrake bar is still in there..take it out. Pull the bleeder screws of the rear w/c..and have someone push the pedal down..SLOWLY. Look for air bubbles and make sure you get a good stream. If a good stream...has to be something in the brakes..or w/c's. Also..make sure you got the correct size of drums. I looked in the books..they show 3 sizes of drums for a gm rear end..all will bolt on..but some the inside circumference..is little bigger than the others. Really..doesnt take much to make the brakes not work properly. If all this checks good...it has to be the master cyl(was it bench bled before installing??) or the lines. If all else fails...pour 5 gallons of gas on her...make a heck of a bombfire..and drink lots of beer ..lol.. Just joking..if this doesnt help..let me know. If you arent too far..id come by and help you anyway i can. Thanks
 
Hello,secret in rear wheel cyl size.GM uses several diff sizes,3/4,7/8,15/16,1,1 1/18 inches.Take one you have and measure the piston inside and GO LARGER!YOU Will Lock Up The Rear Wheels!Carbonrator :cool:
 
if you are allowed by the rules, i would suggest upgrading to disks in the rear. total investment is around 100 bucks if you can do it yourself and you will never have to worry about adjusting/cleaning again. Plus, they work a lot better. let me know if you need more info on specifics.
 
I had the same problem. After fighting bad brakes we made the switch to the rear disc 4x4 s10 front rotors metric front calipers you will need to turn down the axle to fit inside the hat of the rotor if running the early single master you will need a prop valve we had that and it works well. All the road race guys run with a vacume booster that is how I have my new car set up with a stock dual metric master cylinder and no prop valve and it works fine. On the other set up we put the prop valve under the car I know Belleville Automotive has the weld on caliper brackets and can turn down the axles for you ,they also have the rotors and calipers in stock. Both ways work well just depends on what master cyl you already have.

Jason Davinroy
 
I beleive maverick they are 83 to 92 4x4's . They are the ones that lift off the hub. The 93 and newers will work..but..gotta watch it. Get into composite rotors and those cant get turned and are expensive. Just get a rotor..your bolt pattern...which the s10 should be..and weld on caliber brackets .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.




Back
Top