checking stagger via rearend

theory correct on checking stagger via reaend

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cottagehills

cottagehills

http://webbtown.com/
  1. ok, to check stagger in the street stock,
  2. the car needs to be on a flat surface,
  3. place the jack under the mid section of the rearend and begin to raise the car,
  4. if the right rear of the car starts to raise before the left side that is good
  5. the right rear should raise approx 2 inches before the the left side starts to raise
  6. if the right rear side raises more than 2 inches you need either a larger front left tire or a slightly larger left front spring.
  7. if the right rear side is less than 2inches then you need a smaller left front tire or lighter spring
  8. front left tire size 215 and the rest of the tires 225
  9. right front tire 22psi to help tighten the car in the turn
  10. so if this theory works, we will not know until we race again.
  11. i would like input from anybody
 
Either I’m not following what you’re tryin’ to type out OR you kind-a confused on what stagger is. … OR both ;-)

Measure the circumference around both rear tire… Subtract the left side measurement from the right side measurement.
 
i was told to do this method, maybe this is more, front and rear spring issues? would this method determine incorrect or correct springs in the front? trying to solve a mid-turn push issue, i belive the front springs are not correct, example on springs ,left front 1100 at 10in tall, right front 1300 at 10in tall....... now with this method could this tell me that the springs are wrong and need to be less, 900 LF 9in tall and 1100 RF 9in tall?
 
What you describing at the start with jacking up the rear end at the center point of the housing is checking for wedge… In a round about way this can help you with the REAR spring selection.

Do you have weight jackers in the car? …. If you don’t, I wouldn’t suggest changing spring heights, just the spring rate. 900 lf 1100 Rf would be close for a 3000 lb car. Going down in rate for both AND without changing the split of the two rates may help loosen ya up all the way around.
 
no weight jacks used, that just makes it even more confusing,
but am i on track for this ideal?, for checking springs, example if srping rate is to high or to low, but we are going with the concept that this method will tell me that the car has to heavy of front springs and that they are to tall of a spring and they need to be 900lf 1100rf and 9inc tall not taller.
i truly need the input thats why i keep going on , mid turn push always puts us straight to the back and i do not want to be known as the fastest man in last
you help is appreciated thanks
 
No weight jacks…. Do not change spring heights unless the car just doesn’t work AT ALL. Going to a shorter spring will invite an entirely new set of problems to your shop. Just soften them in the front straight across.


The jack method will work for REAR spring rates if you not scaling the car. The right rear SHOULD lift about two inches before the left… If it doesn’t you could change the split (difference in the two spring rates) across the back. You can use shims in the spring pockets if it’s pretty close.


By the way… Weld a socket or something to the bottom of the rear-end housing in the exact center. This will help this method be a bit more accurate.
 
i know that the car sets high in the front low in the rear........ when i use the method it should only be used for checking the rear springs and not for the front springs............ i am getting closer to understanding all of this............. i was thinkg that if the front spring height was lower then the front of the car would drop and it would level out more or raising the rear spring height....... i think the car should set even about 8 to 10 inches off the ground and this would all lead to a car that would have less mid turn push........... thanks for your help
 
I do know you should have a bit of rake front to back if at all possible. 'Round 1/2 inch lower in the front. You'll need to measure at the frame rails behind the front tires and in front of the rear tires. ...hum... I don't recall what the actuall ride for height #'s that I used from the street stock/sportsman days... BUT I think I still have a lookup reference at the house.
 
well this is great information, i now know that now if want to check the rear springs then the jack method wil work.............
thanks
 
we checked the rear stagger at the track and got about one inch and a half difference...... so this i think is pretty close to where we need to be...... plus we pulled the left rear axle right out after making these changes....
 
cottagehills said:
we checked the rear stagger at the track and got about one inch and a half difference...... so this i think is pretty close to where we need to be...... plus we pulled the left rear axle right out after making these changes....
Click to expand...
Stagger is the difference in tire diameters, right rear should be bigger than left rear but I do not know how much for a street stock,
what you are checking by jacking the center of the rear is an old trick to check what is called wedge or bite, typically we usta jack it up and if you could roll a BUD can under the right rear just as the left rear started up you was pretty close...
 
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