cry baby's
- Thread starter fast cat
- Start date
racin90
Well-Known Member
To check a cam you must check lift AND duration!!! That is something ill gaurantee you isnt checked on tech. Not to mention its easier than hell to "massage" the lower end pieces to make them lighter resulting in less rotating mass. Not necessarily more horses just way quicker throttle response. If you dont think its done go read the reports on motors that were caught. Why turn one over the max rpm? Be easy to just walk around and look at tell tale tachs. If someone is wrapping his at 7500 there is a reason. Ump when they stamped their motors it was ones already rebuilt. They never went as far as to check if its legal. It was just one built by a certified builder. Well thats how its supposed to have worked lol.
racin90
Well-Known Member
http://www.circletracksupply.com/gm-crate-motor-cheater-cams-602-603-604.html Passes lift but not duration checks!
racin90
Well-Known Member
http://www.outsidegroove.com/forum/index.php?topic=12741.0 Notice they said the infractions were found pulling oil pans? Engines had rods and cranks messed with
DaveMcLain
Active Member
That's right and you also have to check the events to see if the lobe separation has been manipulated or lobes with different characteristics yet the same lift and duration have not been substituted. One of the modified crate engines that I worked on had a much lighter crank, rod and piston substituted. Think about it the stock crank in a 602 crate engine is a cast crank weighing 54lbs. Drop 10lbs and about 3/4 of an inch in circumference off of the counter weights about about 500gm off of the bob weight and its going to make a tremendous difference in performance even if everything else is stock. The whole idea of using these engines and their seals as a way to tech them is ludicrous.
DaveMcLain
Active Member
Seals do not work to prevent tampering and here's how it is done:
As I stated in one of my earlier posts there are guy who can change the cam in a 602 crate engine without removing the intake or oil pan, only the distributor, valve covers and timing cover. With the valve train removed the engine is inverted on the engine stand to allow the lifters to fall out of their bores. With the engine back upright again they are retrieved by using a magnet through the distributor hole. New cam installed and new lifters are put in through the distributor hole and then fed into their bores using a small magnet that goes down through the pushrod holes. All 16 can be installed in less than 30 minutes. Reinstalling the timing cover is easy enough despite the supposedly sealed bolts.
The extra seal idea that I came up with helped head this off Dave. It was as close to bullet proof as it was going to get, that's why UMP didn't like it! GM Performance's recommendation on the crate engine, and I have the paper work here somewhere, is that no re-builds allowed as the engine is cheap enough to just replace. They recommend selling the used engines to hot rodders and the like to recoup some of your money.
Making it a throw away engine is not a bad idea considering you can get 150 nights out of it
Doesn't the timing cover have seals?
DaveMcLain
Active Member
Yes, but being 1/4 20 bolts they are easily removed and replaced without damage.
The method we were using was to remove 2 of the normal bolts that were next to each other and replace them with socket head Allen bolts. I would drill through one side into the Allen head recess and then take a braided stainless steel wire seal that has a laser etched serial number on it run it through both bolt heads and twist the wire between the two bolts to get a tight as possible before pulling it up tight and clipping the excess wire. You couldn't get an Allen wrench in the hole to take them out with out breaking the cable and if you tried taking them out with pliers or vise grips the marred head of the bolt would tell along with not getting the same twist in the wire. If you cut the wire it unwinds into a mess that would never be able to be twisted back together either. Not perfect but a pretty good deterrent. If it is one I had sealed I would recognize my work to boot.
DaveMcLain
Active Member
Wouldn't it have been a heck of a lot less trouble to just stick with the existing Sportsman engine package and transfer that over to the B-mod if you were going to change the classes?
That's what I would have thought too , but go figure LOL!
racin90
Well-Known Member
Sportsman engine package that was cheaper and didn't have to replace valve springs! No bad idea lol. I never figured that one out. Have to buy new water pump bellhousing flywheel ect ect so on to run a crate which adds to the cost upfront. Got autozone and price a small block chevy water pump versus one for a 602/604. Everything on those motors are a little more expensive. Not that id buy a zone water pump..........just saying in general.
DaveMcLain
Active Member
I think I figured out the "why"... GM must give a kickback to the owners of the organizing body for each engine that's sold to be used in the races that they sanction. They then seed the pot with a few engines that have been "smiled upon", "hotted up", built on a "Thursday" etc. They give these engines out to a few shills who sing their praises as was clearly illustrated in this thread.
The money comes rolling in and everyone lives happily ever after. What a scam....
The local racers are soon left with a pile of garbage that they can't realistically verify as legal or not and then the class soon dies.
Who's making the money?
