Overheating

We're good to go. No overheating this weekend. Our timing was advancing at high RPM's. Fixed the Distributor. Our filler is on the motor (The highest point) and we run lines to the back corners of the intake, to get all the air out of our motor. No filler on the radiator. We run the engine a bit and recheck our levels. I like the safety of the hi pres 25 psi cap. If you start to run hot you won't puke your coolant out.
 
Here is the latest. The radiator checked out fine, but they suggested that I look for bubbles flowing through the radiator the see if I have a head gasket leak. I had bubbles, so checked the compression on all cylinders and could not narrow down which cylinder was the problem. I ran some sealer through the motor to see if that would help and it did not. I finally pulled the heads off the motor and cannot find any visible cracks in the heads or signs of water in the chambers. The head gaskets did not have any signs of damage. Here is the mystery. If I had bubbles then compression was leaking into the cooling system. I know that water flowing into the cylinder would leave marks of the head gasket, but would compression flowing out of the cylinder leave any signs? If a head was warped (World Products cast iron SR Torquers), could compression leak through without leaving an obviously damaged area? Does anyone have some holy water I can sprinkle on this motor?
 
yes actually i have heard of that have the heads checked for beeing warped and having them surfaced would never hurt even if they arent warped to any major degree
 
No holy Water. But You can allways put a straight edge along your heads and check with a feeler gage to see if they are warped.

Do you have water return lines running from the back of the intake to the thermostat housing? We use those to get all the air out of the block.

So are you actually loosing water? And causing you to overheat?

We got our's straight only to have a hole poked in it radiator last Fri. at Godfrey. Welded that up put some more Water Wetter and used Distilled water this time.
 
My guess on the overheating would be that the heat being put into the cooling system is more of the problem than the actual air bubbles, but I might be wrong on that. I am not running the bypass lines at the moment. Once I get this thing put back together, I will give that a try.
 
my thought on the matter

i beleave some one said to try 1 to 1 pullys and i also said that we had an over heating problem this is what we did went to 1to1 pullys and 17.5 (18) inch fan fill the rad. up start the car and run the rpms up a little (2000) or about 500 over what your idle is set at and then you will see that there is no water left (hardly in the rad.) fill it up again at that rpm

about the block have the heads magna fluxed (check with a strond magnet and some powder) it will show cracks (we had one and did not find it intill we did that)

and the last thing i will say about you problem is about heads again and that is get a long pop cycle stick (big enoug to reach across heads) and slowly run that across the heads and watch for gaps in the heads you can also do this for the block too

i lied this is the last when you fill rad. up make sure that the return (to the rad.) is higher then the therm. neck that will couse air buble in there too so that might have been where you where getting the air from (it traps in the ribs of the hose)

hope something in here helped
 
Check Your Fuel Pressure A Guy I Know Had Been Over Heating And Come To Find Out The Fuel Pressure Was To Low He Put On A New Pump Hasn't Over Heated Since
 
all else fails back flush the system block and all to see if when you busted the hole in the radiator pieces didnt flow through and clog water passages of the block.
 
see if your machine shop can pressure check the heads, I've found that this to be better than magnet checks.also when you get it together try presure testing the coolant system use the same as cap pesure,leave it for a while and then rotate the engine with sparkplugs removed and see if one spits water this would pin point the cyl. . i had a forklift overheating had bubbles in the coolant nothing noticeable on the head gasket replaced it had the head resufaced and it fixed it.
 
I am getting the heads decked and it looks like they were pretty warped. I'll bolt them on this weekend and see if the problem is solved. Keeping my fingers crossed...

Thanks again for everyone's advice. :)

John
 
I think everyone covered alot of good things to check, or change to. I would also suggest 1:1 pulleys, a 4 blade 19 inch GM fan, and possibly a moroso, or stewart mid level pump, if you keep having problems once you make sure your engine is mechanically sound, and try the 1:1 and the fan.
 
It looks like the overheating problem may be solved after having the heads decked, but I'll have to wait a couple of weeks to know for sure. The motorhome threw an alternator belt towing out to MCS so we had to turn around and head back home on just the battery. I'm starting to think the car has a curse on it. :mad:
 
we thought the same thing there for the last few weeks we hit walls had no brakes car pushing in the corners had now brakes oh did i mention the brake problem we have had brake peddle breaking on us (never seen a wildwood do that before) and in turn no brakes but i thank we kicked the ghost of no brakes and now we have to find the ghost of breaks and i hope you find him soon too lol

jason
 
We decked our heads this week. Had a head gasket leaking.

You going to be at MCS this weekend? Stop by and say hey. We park right by the pill draw.
 
I won't be back out until the 10th (assuming we don't get hit by lightning or something the way our luck is going). I'll make sure to stop by and say hi. Our car is the blue 95G B-mod.

John Gornet
 
Fri. July 9 they are running MARA Midgets and B-Mods. Supposed to be a big payout. 700.00 to win!!!!!

Our car is the Black & Blue 21 B-Mod
 
I think I have the major overheating problem solved, but still overheated at low speeds. I'm going to give the 1 to 1 pulleys a shot and see if it helps. At least the overheating seems to be at a manageble level now. 220 on the track and 240 by the time I got back into the pits. Now the problem is that the clutch would not release when I went to pull out for the feature, so it was another short night. I have headers that wrap over the bell housing and go out the right side. Could the heat from those boil the fluid in the throwout bearing? It would not release at all at the track but seems to work at home and was working fine before the feature. There are no fluid leaks that I can find. I'm thinking about trying high temp. brake fluid to see if it helps.

Does someone out there have a little voodoo doll of my car with a bunch of pins in it?
 
try to rejet you carb go to a bigger jet if you have checked all you cooling system (now leaks and it is toped) see what that does i am running about 180 to 200 and i run gas (110)
 
Just an update for everyone who helped with advice on the overheating problem. The good news is that last weekend, the engine only got up to 210 on the track so the overheating problem is solved. The bad news is that it pumped out about half a gallon of water into the overflow bottle during my qualifying lap and would not turn over 6200 RPM. I think its safe to say that the engine is done (I'm guessing a cracked block at the very least). Hopefully the curse on the car is just related to this engine and I'll have better luck with a new one.

John
 
Cracked block? Doudt it. Head? maybe. What kind of heads are you running? Blown head gasket? probally. I know you just put head gaskets on it. What type did you use?
 
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